Held at the The Broad Stage in Santa Monica, the annual awards celebrated the best in film, TV, and short-form costume design in eight categories that spanned fantasy, contemporary, and period works. Show hosts were actors Andrew Rannells (“The Prom”) and Casey Wilson (“The Shrink Next Door”).
Wednesday’s wins clearly puts “Cruella” in the Oscar driver’s seat after beating the other three period Oscar nominees — “Cyrano,” “Nightmare Alley,” and “West Side Story.” That leaves “Dune” as the other Oscar contender, but don’t count out acclaimed “West Side Story” newcomer Paul Tazewell (the Tony-winning “Hamilton”). He helped gave the the Puerto Rican women their vivid looks while the Jets wore denim jackets and jeans to look cool like Brando and Dean.
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Beavan’s flamboyant work in “Cruella” will be hard to beat with her recycled-fabric motif for dressing Emma Stone’s subversive fashion designer. Beavan even tapped her own youthful memories of ’70s London fashion in finding an arc for Cruella, who morphs from a rebellious child to a fashion sensation. The standout is Cruella’s red dress, a deconstruction of the prestigious vintage evening gown designed by Emma Thompson’s evil baroness.
“Dune” is not to be underestimated for its imagination and contribution to the complex world building. West and Robert Morgan went more modern-medieval than traditional-futuristic, referencing nomadic tribes of the desert, Greek mythology, and Goya paintings. The complex gray stillsuit of the Fremen desert dwellers from the planet Arrakis is the film’s innovative costume centerpiece, bringing to life the sophisticated and highly practical fluid recycling system that allows the Fremen to survive under harsh conditions.
TV winners included Hulu’s “The Great” (period), Lucasfilm’s “The Book of Boba Fett” (sci-fi/fantasy), and Netflix’s “Emily in Paris” (contemporary).
Special honorees included “Tick Tick Boom” Best Actor Oscar nominee Andrew Garfield (Spotlight Award), “Spider-Man” producers Amy Pascal and Rachel O’Connor (Distinguished Collaborator Award), and “Ray,” “Dreamgirls,” and “King Richard” costume designer Sharen Davis (Career Achievement Award).
Glenn Close inducted late British designer Anthony Powell into the CDG Hall of Fame. She wore Powell’s outlandish designs as Cruella de Vil in “101 Dalmatians” and its Oscar-nominated sequel. Powell, who died last year at 85, won three Academy Awards in the 70s and early ’80s for “Travels with My Aunt,” “Death on the Nile,” and “Tess.”
CDG President Salvador Perez used his remarks to discuss pay equity for costume designers, a field dominated by women and one that’s paid less than other department heads on set. “We will continue this fight until we make a change in the way costume designers are valued and respected,” he said. Below is a complete list of nominees, with winners bolded.
Excellence in Sci-Fi / Fantasy Film
“Dune” – Jacqueline West & Robert Morgan “The Green Knight” – Malgosia Turzanska “The Matrix Resurrections” – Lindsay Pugh “Shang-Chi and the Legend of the Ten Rings” – Kym Barrett “Spider-Man: No Way Home” – Sanja M. Hays “The Suicide Squad” – Judianna Makovsky
Excellence in Contemporary Film
“Coming 2 America” – Ruth E. Carter “Don’t Look Up”– Susan Matheson “In The Heights” – Mitchell Travers “No Time to Die” – Suttirat Anne Larlarb “Zola” – Derica Cole Washington
Excellence in Period Film
“Cruella” – Jenny Beavan “Cyrano” – Massimo Cantini Parrini & Jacqueline Durran “House of Gucci” – Janty Yates “Nightmare Alley” – Luis Sequeira “West Side Story” – Paul Tazewell
Excellence in Sci-Fi / Fantasy Television
“The Book of Boba Fett”: Chapter 1 – Shawna Trpcic “The Handmaid’s Tale”: Nightshade – Debra Hanson “Loki”: Journey into Mystery – Christine Wada “What We Do in the Shadows”: Gail – Laura Montgomery “The Witcher”: Family – Lucinda Wright
Excellence in Contemporary Television
“Emily in Paris”: French Revolution – Patricia Field & Marylin Fitoussi “Euphoria”: F*ck Anyone Who’s Not a Sea Blob – Heidi Bivens “Hacks”: Pilot – Kathleen Felix-Hager “Mare of Easttown”: Miss Ladyhawk Herself – Meghan Kasperlik “Squid Game”: VIPS – Cho Sang-kyung
Excellence in Period Television
“The Great”: Seven Days – Sharon Long “Halston”: Becoming Halston – Jeriana San Juan “The Underground Railroad”: Chapter 8: Indiana Autumn – Caroline Eselin-Schaefer “WandaVision”: Filmed Before a Live Studio Audience – Mayes C. Rubeo “What We Do in the Shadows”: The Wellness Centre – Laura Montgomery
Excellence in Variety, Reality-Competition, Live Television
“Annie Live! – Emilio Sosa” “Dancing with the Stars”: Semi-Finals – Daniela Gschwendtner & Steven Norman Lee “The Late Late Show with James Corden”: Crosswalk Cinderella – Lauren Shapiro “The Masked Singer”: 2 Night Season Premiere, Part 2: Back to School – Marina Toybina & Gabrielle Letamendi “Saturday Night Live”: Rami Malek / Young Thug – Tom Broecker & Eric Justian
Excellence in Short Form Design
“The Bold Type: “Cruella” (Commercial) – Mandi Line Cadillac: Edgar Scissorhands ft. Timothée Chalamet, “Hands Free” (Commercial) – Melissa DesRosiers Ed Sheeran: “Shivers” (Music Video) – Ami Goodheart Snoop Dogg’s Triller: Fight Club “We’re Bringing Boxing Back” (Commercial) – Dawn Ritz Swarovski: “Welcome to Wonderlab” (Commercial) – B. Åkerlund
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